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Gemstone Jewelry

In this section you will find some information that should prove useful as you make your selections, and which will offer new perspectives and understanding about the fascinating world of gemstones and jewelry.

The Choice Jewelry Collection is the definitive online resource for your shopping pleasure, where you are able to browse literally thousands of items according to your search parameters, always at the very best prices.

Within our Featured Designers section you will find an expanded selection of gemstone jewelry in a wide array of styles that are grouped for your shopping convenience, and is the only place you will find designer jewelry value priced.

If you are seeking a piece or style not represented here, we invite you to utilize our Personal Shopper services to meet your needs. Many of the brands, styles, or items you might request will be available at significant savings despite their absence on our website.

 

BASICS OF GEM KNOWLEDGE: The Magic of Gemstones, Gemstone Characteristics, Transparent Color Price Guide, Opaque & Mineral Stones, Gemstone Care, Birthstone Chart
GEMSTONE TREATMENTS
CREATED GEMS
IMITATIONS & SIMULANTS
STYLES, FASHIONS & MORE: Defining Style By Design, Jewelry Fashion, Trends & Directions
CHOICE GEMSTONE JEWELRY: The Choice Jewelry Collection, Featured Designers Selection, Jewelry SuperStore

BASICS OF GEM KNOWLEDGE

By starting here, you will find answers to many of your questions and additional information to broaden your understanding of gemstones. Since the earliest of times, man has been compelled to understand the mysterious world of these treasures, and will always seek to include them in our most precious moments. The more you know of gemstones, the greater your options are for making a simple selection into a personal expression of style, something cherished always.

THE MAGIC OF GEMSTONES
GEMSTONE CHARACTERISTICS
TRANSPARENT COLOR PRICE GUIDE
OPAQUE & MINERAL STONES
GEMSTONE CARE
BIRTHSTONE CHART

THE MAGIC OF GEMSTONES
Though we take gemstones almost for granted these days as part of the jewelry we see around us, gemstones have an amazing history and tradition. They have been used as amulets, as medicines and healing materials since the dawn of time. As portable wealth, gems have been fought over and killed for throughout history. As part of jewelry through the ages, they have graced some of the world’s most famous and glamorous people.

Gemstones are forever, yet the world of gemstones is ever-changing. Each year, new sources are discovered, new cutting and carving methods perfected, new ways of using gemstones in jewelry are developed, and new fashion colors and economics influence which gemstones are likely to find their way into your collection. Choice has perfected a method of presenting you the wonderful opportunity to select from gems that you have not encountered or been exposed to in any meaningful way before, and extends our position in the industry to you with Preferred Pricing for even some of the most recognized designs and brands.

When you shop Choice, you can make magic by having the gemstone of your dreams suddenly appear!

GEMSTONE CHARACTERISTICS
Unlike diamonds which are composed of a single substance and crystal structure which represents a singular “specimen” approach to classification, gemstones are a combination of substances and materials that appear in many different varieties according to the variables present.

With this in mind, it is understandable why it is necessary to determine the multiples of characteristics attributable to each gem of type before pronouncing an evaluation inferring value.

For example, corundum is one of the largest gem “family” groups that include ruby and sapphire as members. It would be nonsense to compare a sapphire to a ruby in order to determine value or quality, but on at least one level it can be done: as a specimen of corundum alone, one may determine and compare the fineness of the crystal structure and formation. Which of the gems in comparison has the fewest, or smallest, imperfections or crystalline flaws? It is far easier to classify and evaluate diamonds than to describe the intrinsic rarity of a particular ruby using this illustration, but it demonstrates the complexities of gemstones and the underlying principle of singularity of natural occurrence.

WHAT IS A GEMSTONE?
PHYSICAL PROPERTIES
OPTICAL PROPERTIES
CHEMICAL PROPERTIES

WHAT IS A GEMSTONE?
A gemstone is a mineral (plus organics like pearls, amber, coral, jet, etc.) prized because of its beauty, relative scarcity, and durability. Out of the approximately 3,000 mineral species available, only about 300 have been deemed valuable enough to be cut into the familiar shapes we attribute to gems. In recent years, definitions of gem materials for use in jewelry have expanded to include previously less rare or even softer materials that would not have been worthy in earlier times. Even fossils are now being used as natural gems in jewelry.

Gem descriptions are often based upon their physical, optical and chemical properties, which help in identification and setting values on specific gemstones. Following are some of the most important factors which help establish gems values.

PHYSICAL PROPERTIES
Almost all mineral gems grow in crystal forms with a regular lattice of atoms, ions, and molecules, which in turn determine their other physical characteristics. These are the physical characteristics of a gem which include:

  • Crystal Structure: The inner structure of the gem. Crystals are divided in seven systems based on their crystal axes and how they intersect to form specific angles. These systems are called: cubic, tetragonal (four-sided), hexagonal (six-sided), triagonal (three-sided), orthorhombic (lozenge-shaped), monoclinic, and triclinic. Crystals can also grow into aggregates, or compact forms, which appear to have no crystal structure.
  • Crystal Habit: The characteristic way in which most crystals of a given species tend to grow; or its type. This does not refer to the actual shape, as many crystals are irregular.
  • Hardness: Resistance to scratching by other materials, measured by the Moh’s Hardness Scale, on which diamond rates the highest at “10.”
  • Cleavage: When a gem can be split along one or more flat planes, that characteristic is called cleavage.
  • Fracture: The irregular surface produced by breaking a gem with a blow is called fracture, and can be an identifying characteristic. Conchodial (shell-like), vitreous (glass-like), waxy, greasy, resinous, and fibrous are the most common fracture types.
  • Specific Gravity: The relative weight, or density, of a gem in comparison to an equal volume of water.
  • Weight: Measured by carats for gemstones, and grams or kilos for rough materials. The metric carat is 200mg, or 0.02g.

OPTICAL PROPERTIES
These describe the ways in which a gemstone handles light (the light we can see with our eyes), and include:

  • Color: Probably the most important characteristic, though not always a means of identification since so many gems are the same or similar colors. Color usually means the hue, tone and intensity as produced by light as it is passed through and partially absorbed by the stone.
  • Streak Color: The measure of inherent color in a stone, determined by streaking the material across a rough porcelain “streak plate.”
  • Refractive Index: A measure of a gem’s ability to bend light. This can be an identifying characteristic.
  • Dispersion: Light fanning out into spectral colors to create a rainbow effect on primarily colorless stones.
  • Transparency: How well the light passes through the gem. There are degrees of transparency.
  • Luster: How incident light reflects back from the surface of a stone. Vitreous (glass-like) luster is most common.
  • Pleochroism: The appearance of different colors in a gem when viewed through different orientations.
  • Fluorescence: Emission of visible light when gem is stimulated by invisible light such as ultra violet.
  • Inclusions: Inclusions are optically recognizable marks within a gem which can interfere with the passage of light through the gem, or the handling of light in a gem. Clarity is the term used to measure the relative presence or absence of inclusions in a gem.

CHEMICAL PROPERTIES
The formula of elements from which the gemstone is built is called its chemical composition. Diamond is simple carbon, but most gems are mixtures of elements in a fixed chemical composition or a series of related compounds in which elements wholly or partly replace each other (e.g. garnets). Most gemologists do not have the sophisticated apparatus to test the chemical composition, and must rely on observable characteristics to make a reasoned determination.

TRANSPARENT COLOR PRICE GUIDE
There are colored gemstones and jewelry available for every price range. Here is a handy guide to help you select the transparent gems that fit your budget beautifully.

(Key:  $ Modestly Priced  $$ Moderately Priced  $$$ Higher Priced)

RED AND PINK:    $$$ Ruby, Alexandrite, Pink Sapphire
                             $$ Tourmaline, Spinel, Kunzite, Rhodolite Garnet
                             $ Garnet, Carnelian, Rose Quartz

ORANGE:             $$$ Sapphire, Imperial/Precious Topaz
                             $$ Tourmaline, Zircon, Spinel, Garnet
                             $ Amber, Citrine, Fire Opal

BROWN:            $$$ Diamond
                             $$ Sapphire, Topaz
                             $ Amber, Citrine, Garnet, Zircon

YELLOW/GOLD:   $$$ Canary Diamond, Sapphire
                             $$ Precious Topaz, Garnet, Tourmaline, Beryl
                             $ Amber, Citrine

GREEN:               $$$ Emerald, Alexandrite, Garnet, Jade
                             $$ Tourmaline, Opal, Peridot, Chrysoberyl, Tsavorite
                             $ Nephrite, Chrysoprase

LIGHT BLUE:       $$$ Sapphire
                             $$ Aquamarine, Zircon
                             $ Blue Topaz, Iolite

BLUE:               $$$ Sapphire, Tanzanite
                             $$ Tanzanite, Opal, Spinel, Tourmaline
                             $ Iolite

PURPLE:                $$$ Sapphire, Tanzanite
                             $$ Lilac Spinel, Lavender Jade, Amethyst
                             $ Amethyst, Garnet

OPAQUE AND MINERAL STONES

Mineral and opaque gems have become more popular and widespread in recent years, and have found admirers still with questions concerning their favorites. Here is a brief explanation of color alternative, just to give you an idea of the gemstones being used in most color ranges.

  • Orange to Brown: Carnelian, sard, sardonyx, tiger’s eye quartz, agates, sunstone, vesuvianite, orange jasper, orange opal (fire opal), gold-brown aventurine, orange amber, petrified wood.
  • Green: Malachite, green jadeite, green Chrysoberyl, green chalcedony quartz, bloodstone, green jasper, green nephrite, Chrysoprase, aventurine, green moonstone, hydrogrossular garnet, moldavite, serpentine (bowenite), idocrase vesuvianite, green zoisite.
  • Blue-Green: Turquoise, chrysacolla, amazonite (microcline feldspar), azurmalachite, pectolite (larimar), labradorite, dyed howlite, peacock opal, prosopite, smithsonite, variscite.
  • Blue: Lapis lazuli, sodalite, dumortierite in quartz, dyed blue chalcedony, celestite, amazonite, blue lace agate, azurite, dyed howlite, lazulite, black opal, smithsonite.
  • Pink: Rhodonite, rhodocrosite, rose quartz, pink jade, rose jasper, pink calcite, conch pearls, pink moonstone, tugtupite, thulite (pink zoisite).
  • Purple: Sugilite, charoite, purple lace agate, lepidoite, muscovite, lavender or lilac jade, fluorite.
  • White: Milky opal, white jade, natural howlite, white or cream pearl, white coral, snow quartz, moonstone, mother-of-pearl.
  • Black: Onyx (dyed black chalcedony), hematite, jet, black jasper, black opal, black pearls, black jade, black coral, black or snowflake obsidian, black tourmaline (schorl).

GEMSTONE CARE

For your convenience, a simple to use chart is provided to guide you in the proper care and handling of your treasured gemstones:

 

GEMSTONE CLEAVAGE POOR TOUGHNESS CARE IN MOUNTING HEAT SENSITIVE AVOID ACIDS AVOID PRESSURE DO NOT BOIL DO NOT STEAM NO ULTRASONIC
Topaz x x x x   x x x  
Spinel       x          
Emerald   x x x x x x x x
Diamond x     x          
Iolite x       x        
Tanzanite     x x x x x x x
Jadeite x     x x        
Ruby x                
Sapphire x                
Peridot   x x x x x x x  
Zircon   x x x x   x x  
Opal   x x x x   x x  
Shell Cameo   x   x x x x x  
Amber   x x x x   x x x
Turquoise   x   x x x x    
Lapis Lazuli   x   x x       x
Coral   x   x x   x    
Pearls   x   x x   x    
Garnet     x   x   x    
Malachite     x   x   x x x
Agate   x              
Chalcedony   x              
Diopside x x     x   x    
Feldspar (moonstone, sunstone) x x x x x     x  
Nephrite Jade x     x x        
Kunzite x x x x x   x    
Alexandrite       x          
Amethyst       x          
Citrine       x          
Hematite       x x        
Aquamarine         x   x    
Amertine       x          
Tourmaline x       x        
Apatite   x     x       x
Andalusite   x              
Beryl       x x        
Quartz       x          
Sugilite     x         x x
Drusy Quartz     x            

Durability of many gemstones, whether listed here or not, is also directly proportionate to the level of inclusions. Use common sense in handling all heavily included gems. Look closely at characteristics of individual gemstones to determine if extra care is needed in cleaning, setting, or polishing your jewelry and gemstones.

The purpose of this information is to provide you with a level of understanding of the basic properties and characteristics of gemstones and how to appreciate them for their natural beauty. These Care Instructions are important for your long-term satisfaction, as you can not replace common sense with simple confidence in a jewelry store, for nowadays it is uncommon to find a truly competent jeweler to trust in and rely upon.

 

BIRTHSTONE CHART

We present this chart listing the traditional birthstones, which although updated (newer stones indicated with *italics), was originally adopted in 1912 by the National Association of Jewelers, which later evolved into the Jewelers of America, the most prestigious organization of professional retail jewelers. This list is thus the most widely used and commonly referred to list today, and its use has become internationally regarded as the most authoritative.

There is also a traditional Anniversary List with suggested gifts, not to be confused with The Birthstone List.

MONTH COLOR STONE
January Dark Red Garnet
February Purple Amethyst
March Pale Blue Aquamarine
April White (Clear) Diamond
May Bright Green Emerald
June Cream Pearl, Moonstone, *Alexandrite
July Red Ruby
August Pale Green Peridot
September Deep Blue Sapphire
October Variegated Opal, Tourmaline
November Yellow Topaz, Citrine, *Yellow Sapphire
December Blue Turquoise, Blue Topaz *Tanzanite

GEMSTONE TREATMENTS

Just as wood furniture needs to lacquered, so too gemstones require finishing before they are ready to be sold. Critical as good cutting and polishing, treatments have become an integral part of the modern gemstone industry. Akin to aging fine wine, most of the techniques used simply facilitate the beautiful end results of the earth’s natural processes.

While these treatments are accepted as commonplace within the industry, the general public’s awareness has been much lower, and often skeptical. This section provides clear answers to common treatment questions. If you need further information on gemstone treatments, please do not hesitate to contact us for a personal response by email or access the industry standard guidelines provided by the U.S. Federal Trade Commission.

COMMON QUESTIONS, FACTUAL ANSWERS
GEMSTONE TREATMENTS TABLE
CONCLUSION

COMMON QUESTIONS, FACTUAL ANSWERS
We hope that you take a moment to examine this section, as it may well prove to be the place you will find answers to the questions you may pose regarding gemstone treatments or enhancements. All too often, we hear from valued clients that they have been presented with a gemstone only to learn that it was not what they first believed. It is rather simple to understand the treating of gemstones if one takes a few moments to browse this section. We hope you are enriched for your investment of time, and that you will be better prepared to make a reasoned purchase decision!

Is the use of treatments globally accepted? Yes, with close to 99% of the more popular gem types treated, all permanent techniques are universally accepted. As the majority of gemstones traded internationally have undergone some form of treatment, always assume treatment when purchasing gemstones. In fact, some techniques such as heating are centuries old – in all likelihood, your grandmother’s ruby ring has been heat treated!

Are all the treatments used permanent? Choice Group - with the exception of Emeralds that are treated with colorless oils or polymers – only knowingly accepts treatments that are permanent and stable.

Why are natural gemstones treated? Most commonly used to improve the color or appearance of the finished product, some gemstones simply would not exist in salable quantities without treatment. For example, heating greenish-brown Zoisite to 600 degrees Celsius produces the popular vibrant violet-blue Tanzanite! No heating, no Tanzanite! (Please note the term “natural gemstones” refers to those formed in the earth, whether or not they have been treated after mining – this is distinctly contrasting to “cultured,” “lab created,” “man-made,” or “synthetic” gems)

Does treatment affect a gem’s value? Interestingly, in some precious and semi-precious colored gemstones there is no variation between the value of treated and untreated material. In fact, treating may even increase a gem’s value. For example, when greenish-brown Zoisite is heated to 600 degrees an incredible metamorphosis takes place. Vibrant violet-blue Tanzanite is created, commanding a far higher market price. However, high quality unheated rubies and sapphires are extremely rare, and command a much higher price than treated counterparts. When purchasing high quality rubies and sapphires, please be aware that unheated material is almost non-existent, and as a result, always purchase your gemstone from a reliable supplier who can guarantee these gemstones, or have the seller’s claims verified by a qualified gemstone expert (preferably a Certified Gemologist). For most people, treatments are a godsend, as they make more expensive and rare gemstones more affordable and available!

What gemstones are usually treated, and how? The following table provides the most common treatments:

GEMSTONE TREATMENT EXPLANATION
AGATE Dyed or Heated Used to alter color
AMAZONITE Colorless wax, Oil, Hardened Resin Used to improve appearance
AMETHYST Heated Used to lighten color and/or to remove “smokiness” this treatment is only occasional
AQUAMARINE Heated Used to remove yellow components to produce a purer blue color with fewer yellow/green undertones, this treatment is only occasional
CITRINE Heated Usually applied, this treatment produces color
CONTROVERSIAL SAPPHIRE The AGTA and GIA classify this treatment as “bulk diffusion.” The GIT classify this material as natural corundum with indication of heating where the orange coloration is confined to surface Always applied, this treatment alters color by external diffusion of coloring elements
DIAMOND (ENHANCED) Irradiated, Clarity Enhanced (Drilled & Filled, Lasered, Stacked, Boiled, Pickled) Used to improve color intensity or to produce unique colors, irradiation is applied. In enhanced diamonds, use of drilling, lasers, fracture filling, or other treatments are typically used to mask clarity or visual imperfections. CHOICE GROUP HAS NEVER AND WILL NEVER BUY, SELL, TRADE IN, SERVICE, HANDLE, OR CONSULT ON ENHANCED/TREATED DIAMONDS
EMERALD Colorless Oil or Polymers Usually applied, this treatment improves overall appearance. Treatment is permanent if properly cared for.
JADE (LAVENDER) Dyed Used to alter or enhance color
MORGANITE Heated Commonly used, this treatment eliminates yellow overtones
MORGANITE (GREEN) Cobalt Heated Always applied, this treatment induces vivid green color
OPAL (DOUBLET) Assembled Product Always used, this treatment improves durability and or color
PEARL (CULTURED) Bleached, Dyed, Chemically Enhanced Usually used, these treatments improve color and uniformity
PRASIOLITE Heated Treatment improves color and appearance
QUARTZ Heated Usually applied, improves color
RUBY Heated This treatment improves color and appearance and is usually applied
SAPPHIRE Heated Usually applied, this treatment produces, intensifies, or lightens color and/or improves color uniformity and appearance
STAR SAPPHIRE (DIFFUSION) Diffusion Always applied for this type, this treatment produces an artificial star on a natural stone
TANZANITE Heated Always applied, this treatment produces violet-blue color for which stone is known
TOPAZ (EXCEPT WHITE) Heated: Cobalt or Diffusion Used to improve colors or to produce unique colors, this treatment is usually applied
TOURMALINE Heated Used to improve color intensity, treatment is commonly utilized for blue-green colors and only rarely applied for other colors
ZIRCON (BLUE & WHITE) Heated Used to improve color, this treatment is always applied

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CONCLUSION
Gemstones are beautiful and mysterious, and will always have a certain charming effect on all of us. Inasmuch as we adore them so and have the ability to wear them as a personal expression much more freely than in centuries past, we must also make allowances to preserve our treasures, and to perform our due diligence to protect their beauty.

This diligence and understanding should extend to our acceptance that gemstones must be prepared for our use, from polishing and cutting into the myriad of styles we relish so, to the stabilization of color by oiling or heating. Were it not for these timeless treatments, we surely would not have the opportunity to see our gem in its full splendor.

This personal diligence also means that we should understand the peculiarities of each gem, and prevent harmful conditions to affect our treasure unwittingly. This begins with simple care in wearing, storing, and refurbishing the jewelry that cradles our gems. It also means that we are expressing our responsibility of possession of these gems, and are able to relate special occasions, priceless moments, and favorite stories when our gems were worn, forever serving us as precious reminders of the times of our lives.

CREATED GEMS

What we now refer to as “created gemstones” were once called “synthetic,” a term that elicited poor response from not only industry professionals, but the consumer market as well. During many hearings and conferences within the industry, and before the Federal Trade Commission, it was agreed that using the term “cultured” was not deceptive nor evasive when describing gemstones that were the product of a process of naturally growing crystals that were stimulated or instigated by conditions and environments prepared by man, just as man “seeds” oysters to produce pearls.

There are, however, synthetic gems that are not produced in this fashion that are still referred to as synthetic, as they should be. Synthetics are man-made gemstones which duplicate the optical, physical, and chemical properties of their natural counterparts. The most commercially popular synthetic stones today are emeralds, rubies, and sapphires.

During the 1830’s, synthetics too small to be used in jewelry first appeared. A process developed by A. V. Verneuil around the late 1880’s called “flame fusion” that is the method still used today for the less expensive stones. Verneuil first produced rubies in 1904, followed by sapphires.

Synthetics and their developments took a dramatic turn with the involvement of Carroll Chatham in the U.S. in the 1940’s, as he was the first using a new method and produced gemstones with sizes appropriate to be cut and polished into the familiar gems to be used in jewelry. Many lab-grown gemstones of today are variation of melt growth, or growth from solutions (the Chatham method) which takes longer than the flame fusion method, and which produces finer and more costly stones. The Chatham method of allowing nature to grow crystals undisturbed in a lab setting is the closest we can come to purely “natural” gemstones. It takes about a year for crystals of emerald, ruby, sapphire, alexandrite, and now even opal to grow to the size that allows cutting and polishing to release the beauty from these specimens. By contrast, it has been said that using the flame fusion method is like cutting marbles from a sheet of colored glass, for although it has the same properties of the natural counterpart, its performance is far inferior to the Chatham method.

The quest for producing diamonds has been undergoing an evolutionary period also. In the early 1960’s, General Electric announced it had succeeded in reproducing diamonds, and although it could duplicate the process, it was infeasible to produce large enough specimens in qualities acceptable to be used for jewelry. Today, a process known as VPD is being used (mainly in Russia) to produce synthetic diamonds large enough and in quantities and qualities that make their use in jewelry a possibility. In fact, Steve Chatham (grandson of Carroll Chatham) has developed an agreement with these concerns to produce VPD diamonds commercially, and has expressed that every Chatham Diamond will have a dopant (a trace level of gas that is identifiable under examination processes) to remain identifiable indefinitely, so as not to cause confusion or be unwittingly sold as natural.

Chatham created emeralds, alexandrites, rubies and sapphires are available in every size and shape, and in qualities ranging from commercial to collection, and each of them costs a fraction of what you would be expected to pay if the comparable gem were mined from the earth. Chatham gems, the most acceptable created gems worldwide, are still somewhat plagued by the notion that they are inferior to the natural counterpart. Why? Do we as consumers think less of the $100,000 stand of pearls we see in the jewelry store window just because is too, was cultured by a pearl farmer and left to grow for an extended period of time? No, it appears that not enough knowledge has filtered to the consumer market to allay fears that money is spent better elsewhere.

We AT Choice do not always agree with this conclusion, and would point out a few issues to consider before ruling out created gemstones completely:

  • If you have a choice between an emerald ring costing $1500 and another that costs $3500, and you intend to wear your chosen ring daily at the office, which seems more attractive? Obviously, the lesser priced ring, which happens to be containing a Chatham cultured emerald. (Chatham emeralds can be produced in greater numbers on a consistent basis, in every quality, so supply vs. demand does not apply when pricing these gems)
  • Since it will be worn daily at the office, is the durability of emeralds as much of an issue that it once was? This is a tricky question, as truly it does matter. Maybe the style or mounting would offer better protection from inadvertent blows, but the real issue is the risk to the Chatham emerald is lessened by the replacement cost of a comparable emerald should it be required. Knowing it will cost far less to replace a Chatham with exactly the same quality frees the wearer to enjoy the ring and to wear it with more confidence. After all, it really is an emerald, only not originating from where normally assumed!

There are still flame fusion gemstones in today’s marketplace with brand names that do not actually tell the consumer what method was used to produce them. The brand name of Chatham infers that it is lab grown, and that the crystals grow naturally, unlike the melt or flame methods.

As an alternative to naturally occurring gemstones, Chatham is still the preferred choice and is still a wonderful specimen to enjoy in precious jewelry.

IMITATIONS & SIMULANTS

A distinct difference exists between created, imitation, and simulated gemstones that often is blurred with the misuse of terminology and the improper understanding that is formed when being exposed to information that has not been presented clearly, or has been clearly been presented to deceive.

Hopefully, the following information will allow you the basis to formulate a proper understanding between these aspects, and to make your gemstone selection easier and enjoyable. Choice Group presents only naturally occurring, genuine quality gemstones in our online offerings, for your ultimate satisfaction and continues to merit your confidence by requiring certification from every source compliance to these rigid stipulations.

WHAT’S THE DIFFERENCE?
Synthetics duplicate the properties of their natural counterparts, where imitations and simulants merely resemble the stones they are meant to portray.

IMITATIONS
Glass and plastics are the most common imitators of gemstones. Both materials can be made transparent, translucent, or opaque, and in almost any gem color imaginable.

SIMULANTS
Simulants are most often used to resemble diamonds, but can be a case of a less valuable gemstone simulating a more valuable gemstone, as when red spinel or garnet is used to imitate a ruby.

Diamond simulants include: colorless synthetic garnets YAG and GGG; colorless transparent glass; colorless synthetic sapphire, rutile or spinel; strontium titanate; and the all-time favorite, Cubic Zirconia.

Though introduced as a diamond stimulant in 1976, CZ’s, as they are commonly called, have become popular in their own right, thanks largely to television home shopping. CZ’s come in a wide range of colors, is readily available, and can be cut to almost any shape or size.

It was not so long ago, for instance that “Pink CZ” was the rage, one that caught jewelers and jewelry manufacturers off-guard, as they had no intention of producing and stocking a line of “junk jewelry” as they referred to the trend at the time! It is now believed that this “flash-trend” was responsible for the resurgence in pastel colored gems, such as pink tourmaline and sapphire, precious topaz, and even richly colored amethyst jewelry that we can see even today being used by noted designers in their newest creations.

FOILBACKS, DOUBLETS & TRIPLETS
In the early days, many simulants were promoted to simulate diamonds that were actually composites, or assembled stones, which include “doublets” and “triplets,” a process which is still in use today (more below). One of the most popular composite gemstones was the foil back stones used widely in “costume jewelry” fashions in the 1920’s through the early 1940’s. Most were rhinestones with a reflective foil glued to the underside which produced a reflective property that was alluring and unique.

  • Doublets: Two layers of material are glued or pressed together to form one gemstone, such as garnet and glass, or quartz and green beryl to imitate emerald. This process is still in use today in the preparation of fine Boulder Opal doublets, and should not alarm the consumer, however. In this instance, a thin slice of the beautiful and rare boulder opal is adhered to the top of a thicker layer of agate or other hard mineral stone, which when complete helps to stabilize and render the opal more durable and easily manipulated in jewelry settings and mountings.*
  • Triplets: Made when three layers of material are fastened together usually with a glue. A triplet can also be two layers of gem or other material with a layer of colored glue or adhesive in between the layers, thus effectively becoming three distinct layers for effect. As with doublets, triplets are also seen today in the preparation of fine opals, especially boulder and black opal triplets. Agate, quartz, or other hard mineral stone is usually the bottom layer, then the opal slice is applied, and is usually crowned by a cabochon shaped (rounded top) quartz layer, which affords the opal maximum protection from blows and scratches.*

*The practice of creating opal doublets and triplets in no way lessens an opal’s beauty or value, unless it is sold to a consumer without the process being fully disclosed. Quite the contrary. Many wonderful specimens of boulder and black opal would never been seen by consumers otherwise, let alone adorn desirable jewelry. This practice is a means of assuring the owner that the opal in their jewelry has been properly prepared for a much longer wearable lifespan, capable of withstanding many of our daily activities and lifestyles whereas other non-prepared opals of yesteryear were extremely fragile and rarely saw the light of day.

STYLES, FASHIONS & MORE

You are invited to experience the wonderful world of Choice Gemstone Jewelry and to view some of the most desired gemstone jewelry styles available today, and to learn of the most current trends in both design and fashion. Many of these styles and information are exclusive to Choice, available for you to use when making your selections with confidence.

Visit often, as this section is updated regularly with new styles and news about gemstone jewelry. If you are inspired after browsing this area, you will find opportunities for you to shop from The Choice Gemstone Collection and our incredible Jewelry SuperStore, which are not only convenient and reliable, but always accessible throughout our website.

Our Personal Shopper Service is another way we can serve your needs and for you to experience the Power of Choice!

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DEFINING STYLE BY DESIGN
JEWELRY FASHION
TRENDS & DIRECTIONS

DEFINING STYLE BY DESIGN

It is difficult to squeeze the complete knowledge of gemstone jewelry into a single website, and often it is just as difficult to educate consumers with information that is not only pertinent, but effective for them to use themselves as they make personal decisions to purchase or establish a “style” with their jewelry choices. For the most part, when we speak of jewelry “style,” reference is made to traditional categories of form and function, as in the difference of necklaces being “formal” or “evening” compared to “everyday” or “casual fashion.” Personal style also comes into play when we think of jewelry style, for an individual can decide to wear a piece of jewelry in an unexpected way, or as a unique accessorizing element that can be expressive of the wearer’s emotions or make a statement that can be observed.

It may be easier to understand how jewelry style and personal style can be unified by the recent advances jewelry designers themselves mixing and matching metals, colors, and intrinsic values of gemstone creations, all of which forces a new style to emerge. The art of jewelry design is fluid, always changing and reflective of our social moods, and is no longer confined by traditional creative categories.

This all translates into one simple mandate: “Anything Goes!”
(Convention vs. Conviction)

This is why we now see new, bold colors in rings styles reminiscent of “cocktail rings” and even fanciful shapes and sculpted cuts on our gemstones. It is also why we see more and more use of mixed colors and mediums aesthetically arranged to please our senses and lifestyle. Jewelry creation will always be an art, and the fineness and quality of manufacture will inherently breed value and special status to an amethyst and pearl necklace moreso than a ribbon being worn as a belt.

The uniqueness and expression of the artist inextricably meshed with the precious materials is something we can identify with, and something we are able to demonstrate to others as a means to express our fashion and self awareness. It is like wearing poetry of a very precious type. And it is truly up to you to enjoy and to redefine according to your fancy. You can wear your new multi-color necklace with your bikini, and you can enjoy the art deco ruby ring while you grocery shop – it is always about what makes you happy, and chances are if others see you happy wearing your jewelry, they will be inspired to follow your example. Funny how that works, isn’t it?

It’s Your Choice!

JEWELRY FASHION

Far more than an accessory to your wardrobe, jewelry is fashion and has the ability to drive fashion. It is seen as the focus of an outfit, and as the essential element to completing a “look” that can compel others to mimic or duplicate the effect for themselves. In this way, stylized jewelry design can create trends, and also be subject to popularity ups and downs.

More often than not, however, jewelry fashion is cyclical, with looks reappearing with regularity. What was the most fashionable ring design of yesteryear, for example, may be today’s hottest trend with the simple substitution of gemstone color at the center.

And, as we can see today, the deco styles of decades past has re-emerged with not only colored stones in place of center-set diamonds, but with intricate carving and sculpted finishes to create an allure completely new and exciting. Notable designers like Gadi, Keating, Atencio, and Caroline Ballou has been wonderful resources for these beautiful interpretations.

For decades, jewelry has been seen on the runways as central to a new line or look, but recently we have seen more unusual uses for jewelry. Pearls are not simply draped around the model’s neck, but wrapped around the waist as a belt. Small beads of a single color are no longer just necklaces, but are mixed with different colors and shapes to form veils and capes. The familiar western lariat style of necklace has evolved into diamond and gemstone creations that offer movement and fluidity to the wearer. When natural gemstones are used in these styles, a wonderful warmth and a soothing feeling is exuded, adding to the allure.

With all of these choices in gemstone jewelry fashion, it may seem difficult to know where to begin. Key to your ultimate satisfaction with your purchase and your long term enjoyment of your gemstone treasure is doing a little bit of pre-planning and considering your intention.

Some of your considerations might include:

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Are you looking to have one of the hottest looks today just as another addition to your overall wardrobe, or are you looking to start or complete an ensemble, an overall look, or a collection?

This question raises the distinction between how you are seeing yourself use the item, either as an accessory or as a part of a whole. If you are merely

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